Fuse Guard: A Circuit for Monitoring a Fuse with a Flashing LED
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Never miss a blown fuse again with the Fuse Guard! This straightforward four-component circuit ensures you’re instantly alerted when a mains fuse fails, using an active flashing LED — no complex measuring needed, just smart signaling!
The Fuse Guard
The term “circuit” is almost an exaggeration for this four-component solution. The fuse guard is connected in parallel to a mains fuse. If the fuse is OK, no voltage drops across it and everything is fine. However, if the fuse is triggered or “blown,” almost the full mains voltage of 230 V≈ is present at the monitoring electronics via the connected load. All that is then needed to make an ordinary flashing LED light up is a little current or voltage limitation and rectification.
Current Limitation
Figure 1 shows the circuit. When the fuse is triggered, the mains voltage is applied to R1 and the cathode of D3. R1 has a dual function: On the one hand, its resistance simply limits the current flowing. On the other hand, it also indirectly limits the voltage drop across the LED. If the current is small enough, the voltage dropping across D1 also remains small enough (in the 5 V range), which is beneficial for the blinking LED and its integrated electronics. An explicit voltage limiter is therefore not required. Diode D2, which is anti-parallel to D1, reduces the potential reverse voltage to a maximum of -0.7 V, which is not dangerous for D1.

Essentially, the circuit would be complete at this point, and three components would be sufficient for the function as a fuse monitor. However, with D3, another diode ensures that only half-waves generate current at R1, so only half the power loss occurs. At a voltage of 230 V≈, only about 3 mAeff flows, which results in a dissipation of just under 0.7 W. Therefore, a 1 W version that is suitable for mains voltage is sufficient for R1.
Assembly
The fuse guard can easily be set up on a small experimental strip-board (Figure 2 and Figure 3). According to the IPC2221 standard, the distances between the strips are, in principle, sufficient for mains voltage, at least in dry ambient conditions. Nevertheless, the areas between which mains voltage is present should ideally have larger distances in the range of ≥2 mm. To achieve this, it may be necessary to remove some copper from the conductor tracks.

As already mentioned, the fuse guard is connected in parallel to the mains fuse to be monitored. If a fuse blows, causing a power outage, the circuit becomes active and flashes. Red or yellow are suitable LED colors — a green LED would misleadingly imply that the fuse is “good.” Caution with mains voltage: Since the circuit is not electrically isolated from the mains, it must be installed so that it is safe from touch. Elektor does not like to lose readers to Zeus, who, as you know, is the one responsible for lightning!
Editor's Note: This article (240272-01), translated by Jörg Starkmuth, will appear in the Elektor Circuit Special 2025.
At Elektor, we publish clever and conversation-starting projects from engineers and makers around the world. The Fuse Guard is a great example — simple, effective, and clearly sparking debate! We appreciate that the author includes a clear mains voltage warning, and as always, we recommend working with caution and using components rated for the job. Safety always comes first. When we publish community projects, our goal is to inspire thinking and open discussion. We encourage everyone to engage critically, and to use the Discussion section to (kindly!) share thoughts, improvements, or safety tips. Let’s keep learning from each other and building cool stuff — safely. — The Elektor Editorial Team
Discussion (10 comments)
F1Andy 1 week ago
Look up :creepage and clearance" for a start.
Single point failure of resistor will pass lethal current.
Plain simple NO!
This should not be published in case you get sued.
Cat C 1 week ago
About the safety comment, while (possibly) theoretically valid; there are (many) cases where the circuit is plenty safe.
You're not supposed to replace a fuse with the circuit plugged in (maybe except in rare-special cases).
The fuse terminals would also pass lethal current if touched. The resistor will not pass lethal current if not touched :-)
BigTJ 1 week ago
Cat C 1 week ago
Did you try it? When LED is off current is low; voltage high; I think it would fry it.
Also, I think D2 is useless.
Cat C 1 week ago
About the safety comment, while (possibly) theoretically valid; there are (many) cases where the circuit is plenty safe.
You're not supposed to replace a fuse with the circuit plugged in (maybe except in rare-special cases).
The fuse terminals would also pass lethal current if touched. The resistor will not pass lethal current if not touched :-)
Cat C 1 week ago
About the safety comment, while (possibly) theoretically valid; there are (many) cases where the circuit is plenty safe.
You're not supposed to replace a fuse with the circuit plugged in (maybe except in rare-special cases).
The fuse terminals would also pass lethal current if touched. The resistor will not pass lethal current if not touched :-)
Thack 1 week ago
The author clearly has no knowledge of the safety standards and common practices necessary when working with mains on a PCB or Stripboard.
I cannot believe Elektor published this lethal nonsense. IT REALLY, REALLY NEEDS TAKING DOWN IMMEDIATELY.
F1Andy 1 week ago
It is fed from an unsmoothed supply; so maybe it will always reset and so will always appear on?
The author has calculated using 230V RMS as if it were DC. In the UK, the expected mains voltage is 230V +10% -6% RMS.
The expected max peak voltage is therefore ~358V DC assuming no faults or transients in the supply.
So the LED is expected to see peaks of >90mA in perfect conditions. The flashing LED is a voltage operated device, not a plain LED, so is likely to fail, and this circuit is likely to be less reliable than the equipment it is fitted to.
Also, I am not talking about Basic Isolation. The safety issues are around Prospective Fault Current, Single Point Failure, Isolation Voltage, Rupture Current, fire, arcing, etc. etc.
Hopefully Elektor will take this article down.
Andy
F1Andy 1 week ago
If you aren't concerned about fires, shocks or liability, and you have built equipment that blows fuses so often that you actually need this device; perhaps try a 1W 5V1 Zener diode for D2. Add a 1uF 630V X-type capacitor across it, to give the flashing LED a chance to work?
The LED body must not be close to ground, such as poking directly through an earthed chassis, as this could flash through.
Andy
pbaak 3 days ago