Supra 2.0 - High End Preamp for Record Player [150616-I]

More than 2^5 years ago a circuit was published called SUPRA, a "superrauscharmer" MC/MM-Vorverstärker" for record players. The low noise behaviour comes from paralleling 8 cheap low noise transistors (BC550/BC560) which reduces noise by √8 = 2.82 resulting in a big board with 20 transistors (per channel!!!).
More than 2^5 years ago a circuit was published called SUPRA, a "superrauscharmer" MC/MM-Vorverstärker" for record players. The low noise behaviour comes from paralleling 8 cheap low noise transistors (BC550/BC560) which reduces noise by √8 = 2.82 resulting in a big board with 20 transistors (per channel!!!).
Today there are integrated circuits which are so noise optimized that a discrete aproach would make no more sense. LT1028 for example has a noise figure of 0.9 nV/√Hz. If you use four of these chips in parallel noise will be halve of this! This is so low that a lower noise behaviour is nearly impossible, because the resistors - even the low Ohm - have a higher thermal noise. One of this Opamps costs between 5 an 10 € which results in about 100..150 € for a preamp in stereo. Seems not so much because people who hear still records instead of MP3s or CDs are prepared to pay a bit more for their hobby.
But combining this 4 Opamps per channel is not all. If you build such expensive hardware it makes sense to optimise the remaining circuit too. Why not integrating a true passiv RIAA correction? Most manufacturers only speak about it. Here they are: buffered RC combinations. Have a look at the design. I made layout files (EAGLE 7) if somebody wants to test this preamp in reality. The values are for a MM preamp. A MC preamp needs some higher gain and lower impedances: R1 = 470Ω, R2...R5 = 10Ω, R14 = 3k9
PS:
(28.12.2015)
And just for the ones who would prefer a concept with "really true" passive filters (not in the feedback loop of an opamp) I made a version with two RC low-pass and one RC high-pass filters in series (each buffered). But without the 10 Hz subsonic filter of the previous solution. Have fun...
NOTE: the kit is back in stock ! Buy the kit now and make your own Supra !
Discussion (14 comments)
Pascal Hibon 8 years ago
Hedwig 8 years ago
150616-I-EN1607 English issue
150616-I-F 1606 French issue
150616-I-NL1607 Dutch issue
Pascal Hibon 8 years ago
I did try the search function but didn't find what I was looking for.
Thanks for the link; I now found the answers.
Dr. Thomas Scherer 8 years ago
https://www.elektormagazine.com/search?query=Supra+2.0
orion65 8 years ago
If you are still interested in adaption for moving coil, please let me know.
My daughter developed a MC adapter as "Maturaarbeit" and I adapted for her the Supra 2.0 for MC. Everything works fine.
BR,
Manfred Dietrich
Dirk67 5 years ago
how did you adapt the Supra 2.0 for MC,
I'm interested to do this as well ...
In the Authors text above there's written:
>> "A MC preamp needs some higher gain and lower impedances: R1 = 470Ω, R2...R5 = 10Ω, R14 = 3k9 "
but I think you did maybe some more ?
you may contact me via "supra_preamp [ät] 24max.de"
Dirk Boesche
(Germany)
elabos 4 years ago
I'm looking to adj the gain for MC on the latest version of SUPRA Phono ( 4*LT 1028 + 1 LM833)
I cannot recognize Your Resistor # reference to change.
Can You confirm me the change for the R Value You did in your experience ?
Thank You in advance
Best REgards
OSK
Telefunken 8 years ago
Also, do you know if the PCB for the analog power supply will be available again in the online store ?
Thanks !
Mathew 5 years ago
I built that preamp and I got on the input of LM837 2MHz sinus.
The LT1028 working like oscilator. It doesn't matter if power is coming from battery or transformator.
Assuming that missing decoupling capacitors has an impact on oscilation.
Looking into supra 2.0 preamp (big schema), every OPA is decoupled and has frequency compensation (https://www.elektormagazine.com/news/cool-summer-free-download-of-the-week-supra-2-0-super-low-noise-mm-md-phono-preamp)
Any idea how to remove oscilation?
best regards
M.
Found the problem. The pcb (brg file) has missing path, sum isnot linked with in of lm837
Hedwig 8 years ago
Telefunken 8 years ago
Dr. Thomas Scherer 8 years ago
Dr. Thomas Scherer 8 years ago
But your comment will give motivation to this...
:D
Alfons Ziegler 8 years ago
Bernd Soulier 8 years ago
TonGiesberts 8 years ago
Hedwig 8 years ago
Dr. Thomas Scherer 8 years ago
IIIIIII, they are just RC combinations, no magic. Lowpass fg = 1/(2 Pi RC) etc.
lllllll 8 years ago
Bernd Soulier 8 years ago
the LME 49990 is definitly the better sound ,much more better is the LME 49710 TO-99 with symetrical Input ,Impedance about 30 kOhms .Shit like 5534 is NOT in acceptance ,the Inputimpedance for MC MUST be aktiv low and there is no other way to do this with a Transistor Basisschematic and NOT with resistors .My original Linn LP12 Vynilplayer with a original Akido and MC Ortofon Rondo Bronze shows this all ,the best Kondensator in the way is nothing ,that means to do the hard way without any Offset .Digital Supplys destroy any good analogsound ,the best way are akkus and the charging must work another time as listening .I worked about more then 30 years as a Soundengeneer ,my ears are more than perfect ,offcourse I like the really good sound and this way is not too much difficult .
Andreas von Ow 8 years ago
TonGiesberts 9 years ago
We completed our prototype and put it inside its enclosure. The amplifier PCB is placed in the lowest slots. Make sure all leads have some distance from the bottom. We used the DC/DC converter as a power supply inside the amplifier enclosure. This way only a standard 12V/1A AC adapter is needed externally. What needs to be done first is the mechanical work. Easiest is the led in the front panel. Drill a 2.5 mm hole in the middle and file out the hole until the 3 mm led can be push through with some force. It can always be glued for safety. On the rear panel we placed the four audio connectors as far as possible on the upper left side of the panel. The holes for the Neutrik connectors should be 10 mm to ensure they’re insulated. We kept the distance between the connectors 19 mm. Keep enough distance from the top edge so the top panel can fit and enough room from the side edge so the side of the enclosure will still fit. Mounted on the right upper corner are the on-off switch and power socket. Here the same rule is applied. Keep enough room for the top panel on the upper edge and enough distance from the side edge for the side of the enclosure to fit. The photos give a good idea of what is meant. The switch is placed close to the side to make it easy accessible when reaching alongside the enclosure from the front to the back to turn the preamplifier on or off. To ground the record player (usually a separate wire) we used a 4 mm screw and nut in the middle (horizontally) just above the amplifier PCB. A washer and a metal threaded spacer are used to connect the ground wire to the case. The M4 spacer is big enough the wire can be connected manually. Internally a solder lug is placed to connect the enclosure to the ‘0’ on the amplifier board (terminal pin next to C53/C56).
First connect the inputs with good quality equal length shielded cables to the input connectors to ensure same capacity. The two bottom ones are the inputs. Then connect the outputs to the upper two connectors. Here also two cables of equal length should be used. We left the front and back panel lying two have better access in the future in in case something needs to be changed or replaced. The cables will be longer then strictly needed. In a metal enclosure there’s also the option to simply use twisted wires for in and output, but the use of shielded cables is advised.
To mount the DC/DC converter we used two leftovers from our PCB milling machine. A single piece of PCB is maybe even a better option. Minimum dimensions are 100 mm and 62 mm then. Place the DC/DC-converter module alongside the front panel the twisted wires for the 12 V can go in shortest way alongside the inner side of the enclosure, from on-off switch/power socket on the rear panel to the screw terminal block K2 on PCB 150464-1. The length of the wires for the 24 V supply lines (K4 on DC/DC-converter PCB to K5 on the amplifier PCB) can best be assessed when the DC/DC converter is put in place in the enclosure. Next step is to connect the ‘0’ of the amplifier PCB to the M4 grounding lug on the rear panel. After all these connections are made only the led remains. Use two thin flexible stranded wires and solder them on to the amplifier PCB. Cut them long enough so they can be soldered to the led on the front panel without stress on the wires.
After this maybe a check is in order to see if all is well before closing the enclosure. Connect a 12 V power supply to the power socket and measure if all voltages are correct:
- +/- 24 V from the DC/DC-converter (K4 on 150464-1), is the green led on?
- +/-15 V on the amplifier PCB (next to C53/C56)
- Check power supply voltages on all opamps (should be around +/-14 V or so).
- Place 560 Ω resistors at the inputs and measure the input offsets (across R1 and R30), should be 0.0 mV. It’s up to you if activating P1 and P2 is in order.
- Measure output offsets from IC1..IC4 and IC6..IC9 (can be 10s of millivolt max.)
- Check the output offset of IC5 and IC10 (a few millivolt)
If everything checks out, close the top and put all screws in place. Connect the record player and the preamplifier to your sound system and enjoy the music.
The LT1028 used in this project is around for a long time and there are probably better opamps available today. What to think of a LME49990. This particular opamp only comes in a SO8 package. Especially for SO8 opamps (single and dual) we designed a little SO8-to-DIP8 adapter PCB (10 by 10 mm). It will have an extra capacitor to decouple the power supply of a single or a dual opamp very locally. But more about this tiny adapter is to be found in a separate project (soon).
12 VDC power supply connected (384kb)
All Wires connected before finalizing (421kb)
Top/front view on the finished preamplifier (236kb)
Top/rear view on the finished preamplifier (246kb)
Another top/rear view on the finished preamplifier (284kb)
View on the back panel after mounting all parts (370kb)
Side view on the DC-DC-converter and amplifier placed inside the enclosure (398kb)
Top view on DC-DC-converter after sliding it in the enclosure (after wiring) (537kb)
Top view after mounting the front and back panel (699kb)
TonGiesberts 9 years ago
150616-2-transformer-pcb-schematic-v100.png (28kb)
Topoverlay of single sided PCB 150616-2 v1.0 (copper bottom vissible) (181kb)
Copper on bottom of single sided PCB 150616-2 v1.0 (60kb)
TonGiesberts 9 years ago
Formula’s: see Formula’s 150616-1.png
pcb-150464-1-v10-mounted-for-phono-preamp.JPG (570kb)
150616-1-supra-2-schematic-v100.png (162kb)
Topoverlay of the pho preamplifier (PCB 150616-1 v1.0) (1089kb)
Copper on top and bottom of the phonopreamplifier (PCB 150616-1 v1.0) (966kb)
deviation-k2-k4.png (9kb)
fft-k1-k3-1khz-16avg.png (11kb)
fft-k1-k3-10khz-16avg.png (11kb)
formulas-150616-1.png (55kb)
Dr. Thomas Scherer 9 years ago
Dr. Thomas Scherer 9 years ago
soundman111 9 years ago
MDV92 9 years ago
Error on schematic Supra.2 :
feedback R18 // C4 => pole 50Hz, no Zero 500Hz.
Replace 68K // 47 nF to :
1) (67K32 // 47nF) + 680R
or
2) 68K // (680R // 47nF)
Dr. Thomas Scherer 9 years ago
MDV92 9 years ago