RGBdigit clock [160100]
A very colourful clock, synchronised via Wi-Fi, With an optional BME280 eBoB sensor board it will also display temperature, humidity and air pressure.
What do you do when you want to design ‘something’ with a vintage or modern display? A clock of course, and this is our first design with RGBDigits: multi-colour 7-segment displays. With a BME280 breakout board attached it will also display temperature, humidity and air pressure. The clock is controlled by an ESP12 module, which makes it possible to synchronise the clock with an internet time server, change the clock settings from any mobile device or computer in the network, or transmit sensor data via Wi-Fi.
RGBDigits are manufactured by a Dutch company with the same name. Every display contains eight 5050 RGB NeoPixel LEDs (seven segments + decimal point) with integrated driver chips, which allow the user to control colour and brightness of every segment/DP individually via a 3-wire bus (VCC, GND an DATA). Up to 10 displays can be daisy chained via their DATA IN and DATA OUT pins.
Each primary colour LED of a NeoPixel can be set to 256 levels of brightness, resulting in 256 x 256 x 256 = 16777216 colours for every segment/DP.
Schematic
The clock is 5V powered via micro USB connector K1. The power supply is protected by 2A PTC resettable fuse F1, Schottky diode D1 serves as reverse polarity protection. IC1 is the main 3.3V voltage regulator, IC6 is the 3.3V supply for the Qtouch touch sensors IC4 and IC5 (separated supply to prevent interference).
The two touch sensors Button0 and Button1 are used to control the display modes of the clock. S1 and S2 are only used for resetting the clock and flashing of the firmware.
IC2 serves as uni-directional level shifter between the 3.3V at the ESP-12E side and the V+ (approx. 4.5V) power supply of the displays.
EEPROM IC3 is used to preserve the clock settings after power off.
A 3.3V FTDI-cable (or other 3.3V USB UART) can be connected to K2 to flash the ESP-12E module, it can also be used for debugging applications.
A BME280 BoB (160109-1) can be connected to K4. The clock will run without it, but of course there will be no sensor data available. An onboard BME280 was no option, heat from the displays will influence the data.
LDR R1 is used to dim the displays in the dark.
K3 makes the 3.3V power and three general purpose I/O pins of the ESP13E accessible for your own developments c.q. future expansions.
Flashing the sketch
The ESP12E Wi-Fi module (which contains an ESP8266) is supported in the Arduino IDE.
add the ESP8266 (NodeMCU). Instructions on how to add the ESP8266 (NodeMCU) can be found at ), follow the steps described there before you can proceed. Unpack the ZIP-file to an Arduino sketch folder on your hard drive, ensure that subfolder DATA (containing the ESP12’s webpage) is preserved in this folder!
Note: if the compiler exits with an error, this is probably caused by one or more missing Arduino libraries. The compiler will report the name of the first missing library, but you can also check if all libraries used in the INCLUDE directives in the “esp8266_rgb_clock” sketch are installed in your Arduino IDE before you start the compiler.
Uploading the clock’s webpages
All settings of the clock can be controlled via Wi-Fi. The initial connection must be made via the ESP8266’s Access Point (AP). Connect your smartphone/tablet/laptop (or PC, if it has a direct Wi-Fi connection) to the open network called “RGB clock” that will appear in the list of available Wi-Fi networks after flashing the clock’s firmware in the previous step. However, first the clock’s webpages must be uploaded to the ESP8266 before you get easy access to the settings of the clock.
On https://github.com/esp8266/Arduino/blob/master/doc/filesystem.md, under ‘Uploading files to the file system’ you’ll find instructions how to do this:
Now the fun starts J Connect to the “RGB Clock” Wi-Fi network, open a browser and connect to 192.168.4.1:81. In the menu (top left corner) select “Wi-Fi settings” and enter the SSID and password of your wireless network. The clock will use this network to connect to the time server (NTP) to synchronise, and send sensor data to the server at Sparkfun (will be discussed later). In the sketch "time.nist.gov" is defined as NTP-server for our clock.
Note:
Every computer with access to your Wi-Fi router can now access the clock to change its settings. Simply type “clock.local:81” in the address bar of a browser to get access to the clock’s webpages.
1 http://www.instructables.com/id/Quick-Start-to-Nodemcu-ESP8266-on-Arduino-IDE/.
BOM 160100-1 RGBdigit clock
Resistor
R1 = LDR NSL-19M51
R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R8,R9,R10,R11,R12 = 10 kΩ, thick film, 5%, 0.1W, 150V
R7 = 1 kΩ, thick film, 5%, 0.1W, 150V
Capacitor
C1,C5,C6,C7,C10,C11,C13 = 100 nF, 50 V, X7R, 0805
C2,C4,C9 = 10uF, 10V, tantalum 1206
C3,C15,C16 = 1 µF, 50 V, X5R, 0805
C8 = 100 µF, 16 V, 2312
C12,C14 = 10 nF, 50 V, X7R, 0805
Semiconductor
D1 = MBRS540, 40 V, 5 A, Vf=550 mV @ If=5 A
LED1,LED2,LED3,LED4 = 7-segment RGB-display
IC1 = LD1117S33TR, LDO, 3.3 V, 800mA
IC2 = 74LVC1T45GW transceiver 1.2V to 5.5V
IC3 = I2C EEPROM 8K x 8 bit 24LC64T-I/OT
IC4,IC5 = Qtouch Touch Sensor AT42QT1010-TSHR
IC6 = MCP1700T-3302E/TT, LDO, 3.3V, 0.25A
Other
F1 = PTC resettable fuse 2A MF-SMDF200-2 (Bourns)
K1 = Micro USB type B receptacle, bottom mount
K2 = 6-way SIL pinheader, 100mil , angled
K3 = 5-way SIL pinheader, 100mil , angled
K4 = 4-way SIL pinheader, 100mil, straight
K5 = 2-way SIL pinheader, 100mil , angled
MOD1 = ESP8266-12F
S1 = Tactile switch
PCB 160100-1 v2.2
RGBDigits are manufactured by a Dutch company with the same name. Every display contains eight 5050 RGB NeoPixel LEDs (seven segments + decimal point) with integrated driver chips, which allow the user to control colour and brightness of every segment/DP individually via a 3-wire bus (VCC, GND an DATA). Up to 10 displays can be daisy chained via their DATA IN and DATA OUT pins.
Each primary colour LED of a NeoPixel can be set to 256 levels of brightness, resulting in 256 x 256 x 256 = 16777216 colours for every segment/DP.
Schematic
The clock is 5V powered via micro USB connector K1. The power supply is protected by 2A PTC resettable fuse F1, Schottky diode D1 serves as reverse polarity protection. IC1 is the main 3.3V voltage regulator, IC6 is the 3.3V supply for the Qtouch touch sensors IC4 and IC5 (separated supply to prevent interference).
The two touch sensors Button0 and Button1 are used to control the display modes of the clock. S1 and S2 are only used for resetting the clock and flashing of the firmware.
IC2 serves as uni-directional level shifter between the 3.3V at the ESP-12E side and the V+ (approx. 4.5V) power supply of the displays.
EEPROM IC3 is used to preserve the clock settings after power off.
A 3.3V FTDI-cable (or other 3.3V USB UART) can be connected to K2 to flash the ESP-12E module, it can also be used for debugging applications.
A BME280 BoB (160109-1) can be connected to K4. The clock will run without it, but of course there will be no sensor data available. An onboard BME280 was no option, heat from the displays will influence the data.
LDR R1 is used to dim the displays in the dark.
K3 makes the 3.3V power and three general purpose I/O pins of the ESP13E accessible for your own developments c.q. future expansions.
Flashing the sketch
The ESP12E Wi-Fi module (which contains an ESP8266) is supported in the Arduino IDE.
add the ESP8266 (NodeMCU). Instructions on how to add the ESP8266 (NodeMCU) can be found at ), follow the steps described there before you can proceed. Unpack the ZIP-file to an Arduino sketch folder on your hard drive, ensure that subfolder DATA (containing the ESP12’s webpage) is preserved in this folder!
- Connect a 3V3 (!!!!) FTDI-cable between your computer and K2 of the RGB-Clock
- Connect a 5V power supply to micro USB connector K1
- Open the Arduino IDE
- In the Tools menu -> Board, select Board NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module)
- In the Tools menu -> Port, select the COM port associated with the FTDI cable
- In the File menu -> Open, select sketch “esp12_rgb_clock.INO”, included in the download from our website
- On the RGB clock board, press and hold reset button S2, press and hold flash button S1, release S2 and then release S1 to enable flashing of the firmware
- Compile and upload the sketch(CTRL+U)
Note: if the compiler exits with an error, this is probably caused by one or more missing Arduino libraries. The compiler will report the name of the first missing library, but you can also check if all libraries used in the INCLUDE directives in the “esp8266_rgb_clock” sketch are installed in your Arduino IDE before you start the compiler.
Uploading the clock’s webpages
All settings of the clock can be controlled via Wi-Fi. The initial connection must be made via the ESP8266’s Access Point (AP). Connect your smartphone/tablet/laptop (or PC, if it has a direct Wi-Fi connection) to the open network called “RGB clock” that will appear in the list of available Wi-Fi networks after flashing the clock’s firmware in the previous step. However, first the clock’s webpages must be uploaded to the ESP8266 before you get easy access to the settings of the clock.
On https://github.com/esp8266/Arduino/blob/master/doc/filesystem.md, under ‘Uploading files to the file system’ you’ll find instructions how to do this:
- Download the tool: https://github.com/esp8266/arduino-esp8266fs-plugin/releases/download/0.2.0/ESP8266FS-0.2.0.zip.
- Unpack the tool into tools directory (the path will look like <home_dir>/Arduino/tools/ESP8266FS/tool/esp8266fs.jar)
- Restart the Arduino IDE
- Now re-open the “esp12_rgb_clock.INO” sketch (if it didn’t open automatically)
- Make sure you have selected the right board and COM port, and closed Serial Monitor
- Press and hold reset button S2, press and hold flash button S1, release S2 and then release S1 to enable flashing of the webpages
- Select Tools -> ESP8266 Sketch Data Upload. This should start uploading the files stored in the “data” folder that was included in the download from our website into ESP8266 flash file system. When done, IDE status bar will display SPIFFS Image Uploaded message.
Now the fun starts J Connect to the “RGB Clock” Wi-Fi network, open a browser and connect to 192.168.4.1:81. In the menu (top left corner) select “Wi-Fi settings” and enter the SSID and password of your wireless network. The clock will use this network to connect to the time server (NTP) to synchronise, and send sensor data to the server at Sparkfun (will be discussed later). In the sketch "time.nist.gov" is defined as NTP-server for our clock.
Note:
- the ESP12’s access point will still be active after you have changed these Wi-Fi settings, so you can always modify them (and other settings) with your mobile device connected to the “RGB Clock” network.
- Firewalls –like the one in the Elektor castle- may block the NTP-protocol of an internet time server, making automatic synchronisation of the RGB clock impossible. We used a smartphone as Wi-Fi hotspot to bypass the time data to the clock, once synchronised it can run without NTP data. Alternatively you can use the manual settings on the clock’s webpage to set the correct time.
- If you want to connect the clock to an unprotected network (no password), check the “Unprotected Wi-Fi network” checkmark in the Wi-Fi settings of the clock
Every computer with access to your Wi-Fi router can now access the clock to change its settings. Simply type “clock.local:81” in the address bar of a browser to get access to the clock’s webpages.
1 http://www.instructables.com/id/Quick-Start-to-Nodemcu-ESP8266-on-Arduino-IDE/.
BOM 160100-1 RGBdigit clock
Resistor
R1 = LDR NSL-19M51
R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R8,R9,R10,R11,R12 = 10 kΩ, thick film, 5%, 0.1W, 150V
R7 = 1 kΩ, thick film, 5%, 0.1W, 150V
Capacitor
C1,C5,C6,C7,C10,C11,C13 = 100 nF, 50 V, X7R, 0805
C2,C4,C9 = 10uF, 10V, tantalum 1206
C3,C15,C16 = 1 µF, 50 V, X5R, 0805
C8 = 100 µF, 16 V, 2312
C12,C14 = 10 nF, 50 V, X7R, 0805
Semiconductor
D1 = MBRS540, 40 V, 5 A, Vf=550 mV @ If=5 A
LED1,LED2,LED3,LED4 = 7-segment RGB-display
IC1 = LD1117S33TR, LDO, 3.3 V, 800mA
IC2 = 74LVC1T45GW transceiver 1.2V to 5.5V
IC3 = I2C EEPROM 8K x 8 bit 24LC64T-I/OT
IC4,IC5 = Qtouch Touch Sensor AT42QT1010-TSHR
IC6 = MCP1700T-3302E/TT, LDO, 3.3V, 0.25A
Other
F1 = PTC resettable fuse 2A MF-SMDF200-2 (Bourns)
K1 = Micro USB type B receptacle, bottom mount
K2 = 6-way SIL pinheader, 100mil , angled
K3 = 5-way SIL pinheader, 100mil , angled
K4 = 4-way SIL pinheader, 100mil, straight
K5 = 2-way SIL pinheader, 100mil , angled
MOD1 = ESP8266-12F
S1 = Tactile switch
PCB 160100-1 v2.2
Discussion (13 comments)
Arshad Tayyeb 2 years ago
I have this board and got it all working. I wanted to make some modifications, and made code changes, and got Arduino IDE to successfully upload the code. It worked fine about 20 times, but a couple of days ago it failed mid upload, and the clock stopped working. It can no longer go into upload mode.
When first plugged in it immediately shows what looks like an upside down A and a 7. If I hit reset, I get 8.8.8.8 all white. The buttons do nothing else anymore.
I tried watching what was going on in serial monitor at every baud rate, and it was a lot of noise.
Any idea how to fix this from here? Is this board toast?
When first plugged in it immediately shows what looks like an upside down A and a 7. If I hit reset, I get 8.8.8.8 all white. The buttons do nothing else anymore.
I tried watching what was going on in serial monitor at every baud rate, and it was a lot of noise.
Any idea how to fix this from here? Is this board toast?
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G7ITT 5 years ago
I have uploaded the sketch without a hitch (apart from one digit having 4 leds dead in it!). I cannot, however, upload the webpages. I get the following error messages:-
Arduino: 1.8.10 (Mac OS X), Board: "NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module), 80 MHz, Flash, Disabled, All SSL ciphers (most compatible), 4M (no SPIFFS), v2 Lower Memory, Disabled, None, Only Sketch, 115200"
SPIFFS Not Defined for NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module), 80 MHz, Flash, Disabled, All SSL ciphers (most compatible), 4M (no SPIFFS), v2 Lower Memory, Disabled, None, Only Sketch, 115200
SPIFFS Not Defined for NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module), 80 MHz, Flash, Disabled, All SSL ciphers (most compatible), 4M (no SPIFFS), v2 Lower Memory, Disabled, None, Only Sketch, 115200
This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
Anybody got any ideas?
many thanks in advance
Seamus
Arduino: 1.8.10 (Mac OS X), Board: "NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module), 80 MHz, Flash, Disabled, All SSL ciphers (most compatible), 4M (no SPIFFS), v2 Lower Memory, Disabled, None, Only Sketch, 115200"
SPIFFS Not Defined for NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module), 80 MHz, Flash, Disabled, All SSL ciphers (most compatible), 4M (no SPIFFS), v2 Lower Memory, Disabled, None, Only Sketch, 115200
SPIFFS Not Defined for NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module), 80 MHz, Flash, Disabled, All SSL ciphers (most compatible), 4M (no SPIFFS), v2 Lower Memory, Disabled, None, Only Sketch, 115200
This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
Anybody got any ideas?
many thanks in advance
Seamus
Reply
G7ITT 5 years ago
Thanks that changed the error to ;-
Arduino: 1.8.10 (Mac OS X), Board: "NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module), 80 MHz, Flash, Disabled, All SSL ciphers (most compatible), 4M (2M SPIFFS), v2 Lower Memory, Disabled, None, Only Sketch, 115200"
Sketch uses 371960 bytes (35%) of program storage space. Maximum is 1044464 bytes.
Global variables use 31700 bytes (38%) of dynamic memory, leaving 50220 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 81920 bytes.
SPIFFS Error: esptool not found!
Arduino: 1.8.10 (Mac OS X), Board: "NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module), 80 MHz, Flash, Disabled, All SSL ciphers (most compatible), 4M (2M SPIFFS), v2 Lower Memory, Disabled, None, Only Sketch, 115200"
Sketch uses 371960 bytes (35%) of program storage space. Maximum is 1044464 bytes.
Global variables use 31700 bytes (38%) of dynamic memory, leaving 50220 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 81920 bytes.
SPIFFS Error: esptool not found!
Reply
ElektorLabs 5 years ago
Look in menu Tools -> Flash Size and change FS from 'none' to a higher value (I think it was 2MB). That should do the trick.
Reply
Reiner Seibt 3 years ago
Webpage upload error oder kein Zugriff auf die Webseite.
Es muß für die Arduino IDE unter Werkzeuge das Tool "ESP8266 Sketch Data Upload" hinzugefügt werden. Im Installations Dir der IDE unter tools . Im Web nach "ESP8266FS-02".zip oder "ESP8266FS05".zip suchen, entpacken und alles nach tools verschieben. Dort muß dann folgendes
stehen: tools\ESP8266FS\tool\esp8266fs.jar
IDE einstellen für Board "NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module)
Erase Flash: ALL Flash Contents - bei "Only Sketch" oder "WiFi Sketch" gibts Webpage error
schätze das Flash enthält noch irgend einen Daten-Müll.
1. Sketch hochladen .
2. Mit dem Werkzeug "ESP8266 Sketch Data Upload" den Inhalt vom Data Ordner hochladen
Danach kann man mit dem Handy das WLAN-Netz RGB Clock auswählen und mit 192.168.4.1:81 auf das Einstellungs Menu zugreiffen.
Es muß für die Arduino IDE unter Werkzeuge das Tool "ESP8266 Sketch Data Upload" hinzugefügt werden. Im Installations Dir der IDE unter tools . Im Web nach "ESP8266FS-02".zip oder "ESP8266FS05".zip suchen, entpacken und alles nach tools verschieben. Dort muß dann folgendes
stehen: tools\ESP8266FS\tool\esp8266fs.jar
IDE einstellen für Board "NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module)
Erase Flash: ALL Flash Contents - bei "Only Sketch" oder "WiFi Sketch" gibts Webpage error
schätze das Flash enthält noch irgend einen Daten-Müll.
1. Sketch hochladen .
2. Mit dem Werkzeug "ESP8266 Sketch Data Upload" den Inhalt vom Data Ordner hochladen
Danach kann man mit dem Handy das WLAN-Netz RGB Clock auswählen und mit 192.168.4.1:81 auf das Einstellungs Menu zugreiffen.
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6 Comment(s)
Chris.KB3CS 6 years ago
the video showing assembly shows straight pins being installed on the board. but with straight pins, the Clock does not fit into the supplied acrylic tube (unless I bend them at least 45 deg toward the middle of the board).
i guess i was meant to use the supplied 90 deg bent pins instead of the straight pins?
BOM does not indicate use of ribbon cable, and there's no mention of the BME280 installation in the documentation (other than the labelled pins to connect). BME280 is meant to go on the outside of the tube?
it is a little strange the Bare PCB photo shows 90 deg pins at "Button 0" and "Button 1" sticking out away from the board, too, by the way.
so far, so good, in any case. Clock is working w/o BME280 at the moment.
i guess i was meant to use the supplied 90 deg bent pins instead of the straight pins?
BOM does not indicate use of ribbon cable, and there's no mention of the BME280 installation in the documentation (other than the labelled pins to connect). BME280 is meant to go on the outside of the tube?
it is a little strange the Bare PCB photo shows 90 deg pins at "Button 0" and "Button 1" sticking out away from the board, too, by the way.
so far, so good, in any case. Clock is working w/o BME280 at the moment.
Reply
Chris.KB3CS 6 years ago
Project docs definitely need to be updated: the data.sparkfun.com service mentioned in the Elektor Article has been shut down. The Sparkfun folks recommend "Blynk, ThingSpeak, and Cayenne". (full blog post at https://www.sparkfun.com/news/2413 )
I'm going with either ThingSpeak or io."BabbageTomato".com
I'm going with either ThingSpeak or io."BabbageTomato".com
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Roland Temmerman 6 years ago
I have just started the RGBDigit clock and its web server is only easily accessible on my iPhone, (on the laptop the menu on the web page is not responding). The clock works well via Wifi and net server synchronization). Unfortunately this is not the case with the BME280 sensor module (160109-1) which connects via I2C (GND, 3.3 V, SDA, SCL) to connector 4. Is it more likely that the module is defective or can a misconfiguration be the cause?
Reply
Chris.KB3CS 6 years ago
i did finally hear from the Customer Service rep 5 days ago: "I have forwarded your e-mail to our lab"
summary: didn't want to wait any more - i fixed it myself.
i've gotten the module working using the thinnest solder wick i recently bought and reduced the amount of solder under the BME280 chip on the side with the SCL/SDA pins. the third pin on that side (counting from the SCL pin) was too blobby. it didn't look good under the magnifying loupe and the chip has a metal case.
now i measure 10kohm each between VDD and SCL and SDA pins and i'm pulling data from the module using the Adafruit BME280test sketch.
i guess part of the problem was Elektor didn't visually inspect it and/or didn't verify it emits data before shipping it to me.
summary: didn't want to wait any more - i fixed it myself.
i've gotten the module working using the thinnest solder wick i recently bought and reduced the amount of solder under the BME280 chip on the side with the SCL/SDA pins. the third pin on that side (counting from the SCL pin) was too blobby. it didn't look good under the magnifying loupe and the chip has a metal case.
now i measure 10kohm each between VDD and SCL and SDA pins and i'm pulling data from the module using the Adafruit BME280test sketch.
i guess part of the problem was Elektor didn't visually inspect it and/or didn't verify it emits data before shipping it to me.
Reply
Chris.KB3CS 6 years ago
appreciate you straightening out the documentation.
the SDA pullup markings look the same as the SCL pullup. i don't have any 10k ohm chips on hand, in any case.
am I on my own with this problem, or does Elektor stand behind their product, i must ask, as i have not yet received a reply to my emailed inquiry.
Ticket ID: OTF-737-05620
the SDA pullup markings look the same as the SCL pullup. i don't have any 10k ohm chips on hand, in any case.
am I on my own with this problem, or does Elektor stand behind their product, i must ask, as i have not yet received a reply to my emailed inquiry.
Ticket ID: OTF-737-05620
Reply
Chris.KB3CS 6 years ago
agreed. that is the information i deduced. thanks for posting definitive documentation here. it will help others. a note: "3V3" is "VDD" for the purposes of the photodiagram.
at the moment, i am awaiting a response from either rgbdigit(at)gmail or service(at)elektor.com to my email.
my module was delivered with some faint solder "haloes" around components and the SDA line unintentially tied to VCC/VDD. i want feedback before i do anything more than the intended shift of the 0 ohm jumper from the R5 position to the R4 position.
at the moment, i am awaiting a response from either rgbdigit(at)gmail or service(at)elektor.com to my email.
my module was delivered with some faint solder "haloes" around components and the SDA line unintentially tied to VCC/VDD. i want feedback before i do anything more than the intended shift of the 0 ohm jumper from the R5 position to the R4 position.
Reply
Chris.KB3CS 6 years ago
i found the module schematic by means of the links provided in the Store, thanks, before investigating further with my Arduino.
with reference to your schematic: K2 pin 4 (VCC) [stenciled VDD on the module] to K1 pin 3 (SDA) [stenciled SDA/SDI] should be 10 kohms. my module reads 0 ohms.
this is consistent with the behavior observed on both my Clock and my Arduino: once the SDA line is connected, the I2C bus stalls.
the bus address is immaterial at the moment, as no communication with the module is possible.
the I2C bus cannot properly function with the SDA line tied to VCC/VDD. once it is functioning, i can easily scan all I2C addresses to verify which address the module acknowledges.
with reference to your schematic: K2 pin 4 (VCC) [stenciled VDD on the module] to K1 pin 3 (SDA) [stenciled SDA/SDI] should be 10 kohms. my module reads 0 ohms.
this is consistent with the behavior observed on both my Clock and my Arduino: once the SDA line is connected, the I2C bus stalls.
the bus address is immaterial at the moment, as no communication with the module is possible.
the I2C bus cannot properly function with the SDA line tied to VCC/VDD. once it is functioning, i can easily scan all I2C addresses to verify which address the module acknowledges.
Reply
Roland Temmerman 6 years ago
Chris,
Double check SDA and SCL connection to K1. I chose a third party sensor with a clear datasheet and I2C slave address 0x77 that immediately worked correctly. The Elektor sensor BME280 e-BoB has a default address of 0x76 and requires the 0R resistor to be moved from position 5 to position 4 (see attached .PDF) to get the slave I2C address of 0x77, so SMD soldering for non beginners or adjusting the firmware for the bravest is needed. I successfully moved the bridge on the small BME280 e-BoB from Elektor to position 4 and only then does the sensor work together with the clock as described .
Too late I noticed that the support should have pointed to the links (Dutch (!) elektormagazine.nl) with a clear schematic (for those familiar with Eagle PCB design) which could have prevented all this confusion. Take a look at
https://www.elektormagazine.nl/labs/bme280-bob-160109-1
It would be interesting that if Elektor supplies modules, either a schematic is attached or at least a link to the relevant article and/or schematic.
Best regards
Double check SDA and SCL connection to K1. I chose a third party sensor with a clear datasheet and I2C slave address 0x77 that immediately worked correctly. The Elektor sensor BME280 e-BoB has a default address of 0x76 and requires the 0R resistor to be moved from position 5 to position 4 (see attached .PDF) to get the slave I2C address of 0x77, so SMD soldering for non beginners or adjusting the firmware for the bravest is needed. I successfully moved the bridge on the small BME280 e-BoB from Elektor to position 4 and only then does the sensor work together with the clock as described .
Too late I noticed that the support should have pointed to the links (Dutch (!) elektormagazine.nl) with a clear schematic (for those familiar with Eagle PCB design) which could have prevented all this confusion. Take a look at
https://www.elektormagazine.nl/labs/bme280-bob-160109-1
It would be interesting that if Elektor supplies modules, either a schematic is attached or at least a link to the relevant article and/or schematic.
Best regards
Reply
Chris.KB3CS 6 years ago
connected the BME280 to an Arduino Uno with working I2C setup (LCD with scrolling text). there's definitely a problem with the SDA pin on the BME280. connect that, and the I2C bus stalls immediately.
checked with ohmmeter: SCL pin is 10kohm to VDD pin. SDA pin is 0 ohm to VDD pin. conclusion: one out of two pullup resistors are okay.
checked with jeweler's loupe: pullup on SDA line looks okay. there might be a little too much solder on the BME pin, though. removed some whiskers from the board, too.
rather than start taking off components to troubleshoot this, perhaps i should seek a replacement sensor board?
checked with ohmmeter: SCL pin is 10kohm to VDD pin. SDA pin is 0 ohm to VDD pin. conclusion: one out of two pullup resistors are okay.
checked with jeweler's loupe: pullup on SDA line looks okay. there might be a little too much solder on the BME pin, though. removed some whiskers from the board, too.
rather than start taking off components to troubleshoot this, perhaps i should seek a replacement sensor board?
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Chris.KB3CS 6 years ago
i've done the same with my BME280 and tested with jumper resistor in position R4 and R5. no joy. in both cases, as soon as i connect the SDA and SCL lines, the clock forgets its configuration and displays only - - - - .. also the submitted config is forgotten on reset with the SDA+SCL lines connected. disconnect the SDA+SCL lines, and all is well again (and the clock remembers its config set before connecting the BME)
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11 Comment(s)
toolak 6 years ago
After two bad experiences with the RGB digits, one din't display blue color on the last digit, the second one was "flashing" i.e. segments of the last digit (once again !) display correct information plus random lightning on the segments, very boring, I decide for my third clock not to solder directly the displays on the board but thru connectors.
And changed the time server from time.nist.gov to 0.FR.pool.ntp.org, to avoid repeated lost !
Very good project anyway, thanks !
And changed the time server from time.nist.gov to 0.FR.pool.ntp.org, to avoid repeated lost !
Very good project anyway, thanks !
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Sircoen 6 years ago
Hi Toolak,
Too bad to read about your experiences with our RGB Digits. Despite of our strict quality control, it's always possible that an RGB Digit does not work properly.
I have just checked our customer support mailbox but can't find a report from you.
To find out what might be going on I would like to get in touch with you. Please mail me at rgbdigit@gmail.com
Kind regards,
RGBdigit.com
Too bad to read about your experiences with our RGB Digits. Despite of our strict quality control, it's always possible that an RGB Digit does not work properly.
I have just checked our customer support mailbox but can't find a report from you.
To find out what might be going on I would like to get in touch with you. Please mail me at rgbdigit@gmail.com
Kind regards,
RGBdigit.com
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GRF 7 years ago
To All,
Any news concerning the firmware? It looks like the clock is loosing the internet connection temporarily and then moves into an endless software loop without ever recovering (4 dash and the dots "traveling"). A reset fixes the problem for a random time (from 2 hrs to 48 hrs).
Gizmo (June 21, 2017 | 15:50) has found the problem but hadn't the time yet to publish the fix.
Right now the clock looks nice but is of little use asI have to manually reset it.
I would be glad for a fix.
Thank you and Best Regards
gerard
Any news concerning the firmware? It looks like the clock is loosing the internet connection temporarily and then moves into an endless software loop without ever recovering (4 dash and the dots "traveling"). A reset fixes the problem for a random time (from 2 hrs to 48 hrs).
Gizmo (June 21, 2017 | 15:50) has found the problem but hadn't the time yet to publish the fix.
Right now the clock looks nice but is of little use asI have to manually reset it.
I would be glad for a fix.
Thank you and Best Regards
gerard
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GRF 7 years ago
First: congratulations for this nice product. It is running for 5 days here, I enjoy it very much but every 24 hours or so, the clock looses the connection to the router (dots circulating from left to right) and does not reconnect itself unless I hard reset the clock or power off/on.
Any suggestions where to look for this behaviour? --
Any suggestions where to look for this behaviour? --
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Gizmo 7 years ago
My code has considerably grown since the original project, I have much proprietary stuff interfaced with it plus the code is not well documented and I am not a real structured programmer so sharing in it's entirely I don't think would be a good idea but I will try to find the changes I made for the retry stuff, as the original project is written if you boot it and it can not find the wifi right then it will just sit there, I added the retry as well as a resync with the nist every 24 hours which seems to keep them going without intervention and accurate. I will be very busy for the next few weeks but afterward plan on adding some more stuff to mine and will get your code snipet figured out then and share, Cheers, J
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GRF 7 years ago
Hi Gizmo, ich still have the issue of the ESP loosing connection and I read that you made the proper modification to "retry" the connection. I am not a code specialist, could you direct me with the right code snipet to a modification wich would reconnect the clock when it is stuck? Thank for for your help. GRF
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Gizmo 7 years ago
First off, Great project!! I built one the same day you posted the code and now have 4 in operation with many added features and even westminster chimes as well as drivers for using RGB LED strings instead of the RGB digits. I have found that the ESP reboots all the time and in the beginning it did loose connection, I had to write some code to "retry" the connection on a failure, after that it has worked pretty well. Power problems is the number one cause of the reboots but there is some kind of memory overflow or stack problem as well. J
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GRF 7 years ago
@ Lucky: I need your help. I think I tracked down the reason for the disconnect. Once a while the unit get an exception (I caught one on the serial port, see attachment) and then reset itself. During this process - sometimes, not always - the tick mark in the website goes from "protected wifi" (= no tick mark) to "unprotected" (tick mark is set now). And because the router is protected, the clock cannot access it anymore.
If I attach the same clock to the same router without WPA2 protection, the clock works 24/7.
Router is Fritzbox 7490. I have attached an dump of an exception (in this case the clock did reconnect)
My programming knowledge is not good enough to track down the necessary software modification.
Do you have a chance to look into this? Is there anything you want me to do, to check more things? I am myself out of option.
Thank you
@Gizmo
Hi Gizmo, ich still have the issue of the ESP loosing connection and I read that you made the proper modification to "retry" the connection. I am not a code specialist, could you direct me with the right code snipet to a modification wich would reconnect the clock when it is stuck? Thank for for your help. GRF
If I attach the same clock to the same router without WPA2 protection, the clock works 24/7.
Router is Fritzbox 7490. I have attached an dump of an exception (in this case the clock did reconnect)
My programming knowledge is not good enough to track down the necessary software modification.
Do you have a chance to look into this? Is there anything you want me to do, to check more things? I am myself out of option.
Thank you
@Gizmo
Hi Gizmo, ich still have the issue of the ESP loosing connection and I read that you made the proper modification to "retry" the connection. I am not a code specialist, could you direct me with the right code snipet to a modification wich would reconnect the clock when it is stuck? Thank for for your help. GRF
Reply
GRF 7 years ago
@ Lucky: Thank you for looking into this. If no simple solution, maybe a short piece of code which can reset the ESP if not in contact with the router for i.e. 10min? I forgot to mention that beside the "scanning dots" the time is not displayed when the router is loss.
Added June 10th: after looking a bit longer into this issue I found that the ESP AP is still working when the clock disconnects from the router. The clock also looses the time (although I can set it manually through the AP).
Looks like the general problem is a random disconnect from the router and as a result: no NTP, no Data upload, no web access to the sensors
Added June 10th: after looking a bit longer into this issue I found that the ESP AP is still working when the clock disconnects from the router. The clock also looses the time (although I can set it manually through the AP).
Looks like the general problem is a random disconnect from the router and as a result: no NTP, no Data upload, no web access to the sensors
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Yannick Mr LIRET 7 years ago
Hello, yes this ais a great job you done.
the iot approche will be usefull for me in the future.
I did a test on a nodemcu board , load teh firmware and data.
Can reach the web page : in my case 192.168.1.31:81 or the acces pont 192.168.4.1:81
the web page is displayed but the menu is not working. Thats mean that the script.js file is not loading.
Did you experiment that?
best regards.
the iot approche will be usefull for me in the future.
I did a test on a nodemcu board , load teh firmware and data.
Can reach the web page : in my case 192.168.1.31:81 or the acces pont 192.168.4.1:81
the web page is displayed but the menu is not working. Thats mean that the script.js file is not loading.
Did you experiment that?
best regards.
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Yannick Mr LIRET 7 years ago
Hi, the fact was tghat the script was not working.
I have changed this line in the script file:
function request(val, func, noResponse =false)
to
function request(val, func, noResponse )
Now, all is working fine.
Did you experiment that before?
Best regards
Yannick
I have changed this line in the script file:
function request(val, func, noResponse =false)
to
function request(val, func, noResponse )
Now, all is working fine.
Did you experiment that before?
Best regards
Yannick
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Updates from the author
Lucky 6 years ago
(please note: this text was corrected 1-11-2018! So open connection at R5, R4 0 Ohm is the correct setting for I2C address 0x77)
Alternatively, if you are planning to change the firmware of the clock or (re)program the ESP8266 module yourself and/or don't want to change the hardware of the sensor module, you can change the address in source file "Adafruit_BME280.h" in the following line:
#define BME280_ADDRESS (0x77)
Of course you must edit this line and change the address to 0x76.
Roland Temmerman 6 years ago
The actual preassembled Emlektor module BME280 has zero ohm resistors at positions R1, R7 and R5 (!). This results in a default I2C address 6x76 (tested with RaspPi) and not the expected 0x76. An original Adafruit BME280 module has a default address at 0x77. How can I set the correct I2C address on the Elektor module?
Roland Temmerman 6 years ago
ClemensValens 6 years ago
Chris.KB3CS 6 years ago
please someone verify and confirm proper jumper placement with the RGB Digit Clock.
Roland Temmerman 6 years ago
Too late I noticed that the support should have pointed to the links (Dutch (!) elektormagazine.nl) with a clear schematic (for those familiar with Eagle PCB design) which could have prevented all this confusion. Take a look at
https://www.elektormagazine.nl/labs/bme280-bob-160109-1
It would be interesting that if Elektor supplies modules, either a schematic is attached or at least a link to the relevant article and/or schematic.
Best regards
ClemensValens 6 years ago
Chris.KB3CS 6 years ago
thank you for following up!
i have yet to receive any communication regarding what appears to be an unintended assembly error unrelated to the I2C address in the BME280 module i purchased from Elektor, however.
sadly, as it has been over a week since opening a Ticket, i believe i have my answer to that issue: i am on my own to resolve it. i've turned to another breakout board provider (i shall call it "BabbageTomato") so that i may complete my project.
Roland Temmerman 6 years ago
The Bosch sensor BME280 is not calibrated and is not easy to calibrate by software. The sensor can hardly be used as a temperature indication because it deviates 2 to 2,5 degrees from a calibrated TSI Q-TRAK (IAQ monitor) in the range of 10 to 20 °C. Further cheap modules with the same sensor from both Adafuit and BlueDot also show the important deviation. No precision sensor is expected for this price, but none of the three is appropriate even for consumer use.
Bosch forum : what about self heating of sensor (4-5 °C) :
https://xdk.bosch-connectivity.com/community/-/message_boards/message/89140
(according to datasheet : Temperature measured by the internal temperature sensor : This temperature value depends on the PCB temperature, sensor element self-heating and ambient temperature and is typically above ambient temperature.)
[...Bosch Sensortec BME280. As any electronic component, the sensor is subject to self heating, which can be from the sensor itself, as well as from other components used at the time of measurement. Unfortunately, this self heating strongly depends on the usage, and as the XDK can be freely programmed, the self heating depends on so many factors that we cannot provide a simple answer to that.
The sensor can be influenced to some extend by the sampling rate and by how fast a reading is taken after switching it on (see sensor datasheet for details http://ae-bst.resource.bosch.com/media/products/dokumente/bme280/BST-BME280_DS001-09.pdf ). As for a user defined program: I suggest monitoring the outside temperature with a reference thermometer and once a stable offset value is observed, use this to compensate the measurements. As an indication, we observed a self heating of 3-4K (!)under a normal load profile using sensors and Bluetooth.
The inaccuracy of the humidity is strongly related the temperature, as relative humidity is calculated using the temperature reading. Hence, a higher temperature leads to a lower relative humidity. Once the temperature compensation is done, the relative humidity can be calculated using the temperature gap.
See also:
http://go.vaisala.com/humiditycalculator/vaisala_humidity_calculator.html
http://www.vaisala.com/Vaisala%20Documents/Application%20notes/Humidity_Conversion_Formulas_B210973EN-F.pdf ...]
Best regards
Lucky 7 years ago